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TAG Heuer Debuts In-House Calibre 1969 (CH 80) Automatic Chronograph Watch Movement
Article publié le 20/06/2014
At 6.5mm thick, the Calibre 1969 is a rather thin chronograph. It is certainly thinner than the 1887, which is good because it allows TAG Heuer to produce a less bulky watch in a more elegant case. The chronograph is really going to be a major part of the movement, and it has two important features that chronograph lovers should be looking for. First is a vertical clutch transmission, as well a column wheel. These features ensure smooth, precise operation of the chronograph as well as long term reliability. While not rendered in blued steel (such as the column wheel on the 1887), the column wheel on the 1969 is easily visible through the rear of the replica tag heuer Grand Carrera peeking out from the main plate. While movements with many parts are impressive, from an industrial and efficiency standpoint those with fewer parts are better. More pieces means that more things can go wrong. In all, the Calibre 1969 has about 200 parts, most of which are produced at the Chevenez manufacture. TAG Heuer has employed a series of very high-tech machines to produce everything. Using smaller, oil-free CNC and other robotic manufacturing machines (to make the parts), TAG Heuer is awarded with an amazing amount of technical flexibility that allows them to change what they are producing very quickly. The facility is fully staffed with watchmakers in charge of assembly and quality control. An attractive series of features means nothing without performance. TAG Heuer designed the Calibre 1969 to be easily regulated within COSC Chronometer certification range, so on average the 1969 should be no worse than plus 4 or minus 6 seconds a day. While for now the movements aren't officially COSC certified, they are designed to operate within COSC accuracy specifications. As of now TAG Heuer has not announced when the Calibre 1969 will be available for sale or what Franck Muller replica uk they will be in. Linder did however give plenty of hints about the future of the movement. First, Calibre 1969-based watches will be announced by the end of the year 2013. The movements are already in production, so they are probably going to be debuted in an actual case very soon. My guess (along with others) is that the Calibre 1969 will debut in a Carrera-style watch. Mr. Linder was quick to point out that the 1969 movement will be used in a range of watches, and not just in single watch collections such as the Carrera. Though many movements premiere in the Carrera, they often branch out to other TAG Heuer models as the brand seeks to discover the best personality for the new movement. It is truly stunning how modern and fresh the new TAG Heuer factory is. It is certainly highly branded with pictures of TAG Heuer products and accomplishments. In many ways it is a purist production facility that feels like an automotive plant more than a traditional A.Lange&Sohne replica uk factory. TAG Heuer brand patriarch Jack Heuer was there for the debut of the Calibre 1969. He didn't speak much about the movement or the brand, but he did help cook lunch for us. As a rare treat TAG Heuer set up a lunch dining table in the middle of the manufacture. I've eaten at watch brands before, but never in the actual room where watches were being made. The matchmakers actually continued to work while we dined. I hypothesize that watches with the Calibre 1969 movement will be positioned between the Calibre 1887 and the Calibre 36 (which is essentially a Zenith El Primero). TAG Heuer isn't clear on pricing yet because all the details aren't ready, but these will become clear soon. As I said, the 1969 will more than likely debut in a Carrera watch, but should branch out a bit in the near future into other product families. As a watch lover I am excited about the Calibre 1969 (Calibre CH 80) because of its functionality, design, and relative affordable. Given the right case and dial design, I could easily see myself lusting after watches with this movement inside of it and spending my own money on one. As soon as TAG Heuer has released the first watch with a Calibre 1969 movement in it, aBlogtoWatch will be among the first to inform you about it.
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The A. Lange & S?hne Lange 1 Time Zone Luminous
Article publié le 20/06/2014
I really grew to love the look of this watch, but what made it special to me is the other side of the dial, and the way it wears (which I'll cover after the section on the movement). The Lange caliber L031.1. is just pure watchmaking artistry, with typical Lange hallmarks such as the three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver, screwed gold chatons, the twin mainspring barrel for a power reserve of more than three days, the elaborate whiplash precision index adjuster, and not one, but TWO hand-engraved cocks (the traditional balance wheel cock, and an intermediate wheel cock). It features 417 different components, and the entire thing is just a pure vision. It should be said that Lange's movements are what makes their replica tag heuer Grand Carrera so special, and while I had the pleasure of wearing the Time Zone, I regularly found myself taking it off my wrist to examine the caseback. Wow. Just wow. It is that good. Click through the images above to see what I mean, and why so much is made of the fact that Lange hand engraves their wheel cocks, making each watch's movement unique. The Lange 1 Time Zone has TWO hand-engraved cocks, which is a lot of fun. It should be said that Lange's movements are what makes their watches so special, and while I had the pleasure of wearing the Time Zone, I regularly found myself taking it off my wrist to examine the caseback. Wow. Just wow. It is that good. Click through the images above to see what I mean, and why so much is made of the fact that Lange hand engraves their wheel cocks, making each Franck Muller replica uk's movement unique. The Lange 1 Time Zone has TWO hand-engraved cocks, which is a lot of fun. The large curved lugs make this watch hug the wrist really well, and the case is just beautifully finished. While the bezel and lugs are polished, the mid-section of the case is matte brushed and the contrast gives the watch a nice casual look to it. In fact, I would say that it is this watch's casual excellence that makes it so attractive. This is not a super formal watch pretending to be some elegant accoutrement to a glamorous world-traver. In my eyes, this watch is a technically brilliant companion of someone who values mechanical excellence and cares little about how the world views him. I wore this watch most days with shorts, occasionally to the beach, in small, rural towns hundreds of miles away from anyone who would care about what type of watch I had on, and it performed its duties flawlessly. The white gold case, which not a single person suspected was anything more than steel, the luminous dial which worked well at dusk, and the general casual comfort of the Lange 1 Time Zone Luminous made me fall in love with it. In fact, this is probably the finest high-grade mechanical watch for someone who travels frequently available on the market (though FP Journe's Resonance is another superb option) because of its casualness. At $50,100, the A.Lange&Sohne replica uk Time Zone Luminous is not for anyone who has to think about money twice, but it is the watch that completely changed my perspective on the brand. I get it now. And in fact, for years, I said that if/when I am in a position to buy a watch from Lange, it would be a chronograph. That is no longer (necessarily) the case, because this simply superb and unpretentious dual time zone watch is just that good, and in my eyes represents everything that makes A. Lange & S?hne so wonderful and so special in the luxury watch industry today - quiet excellence with little fuss.
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Hands-On With The A. Lange & S?hne Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna
Article publié le 19/06/2014
One of the most interesting complicated watches to come out of SIHH 2014 is without a doubt the Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna from A. Lange & S?hne. It uses a regulator-style dial layout with the addition of a perpetual calendar, a 14-day power reserve, a constant force escapement, and a graphic orbital moonphase complication right on the plate of the movement. This is an absolute beast of a replica tag heuer Grand Carrera and here we have a ton of live photos and all the gritty details for you. The first thing you'll notice looking at the Terraluna is just how big it is. At 45.5mm in diameter and 16.5mm thick, the Terraluna is bigger than what most will want to wear on a daily basis. It sits about as well on the wrist as one can hope for at this size, but it's not sliding under any cuffs. The two advantages to the size though are the clarity of the relatively busy dial and the amount of three-dimensonality you can admire in the calibre L096.1 through the sapphire back. The Terraluna is big, but it's big with purpose. Getting past the size, let's look at this dial. You've got a regulator display for the time, a style that originated in Glashütte in the nineteenth century for scientific clocks. The minutes track is the largest of the three registers, and off to the right you get the hours marked with classic clock-style Roman numerals and to the left you get the seconds register with that signature Lange seconds hand. Sometimes the asymmetry of regulators can be visually distracting, but here is works really well. Tucked into each of the timekeeping registers is a display for the perpetual calendar. At the top of the dial is the Lange panoramic big date (inside the minutes register) and the day of the week and month are displayed in windows on the lower left and right respectively. Visual priority is given to the information you need the most across the whole dial, which is crucial when there is this much going on. Finally you'll see the small "1-4" leap year indicator over by the crown and the curved power reserve indicator at the bottom of the dial.As if the dial side isn't impressive enough, the real stand-out features of the Terraluna are revealed when you turn the Franck Muller replica uk over. The calibre L096.1 is just incredible looking, and balances out giving you a look at the mechanics behind the complications and displaying the orbital moonphase indicator. Explaining the moonphase without a video can be a little tough (we'll have that for you soon enough), but it's relatively intuitive once it clicks. The balance wheel represents the sun and then there are three discs which represent the earth, sky, and moon. The earth rotates once every 24 hours and you can read the time in each location on the globe on the 24-hour scale around the edge of the movement plate. Simple enough. The sky and moon discs rotate in opposite directions once each lunar month (29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, 3 seconds) to show the current phase of the moon through the aperture in the sky disc. You can visualize the current alignment of the earth, moon, and sun easily by looking at the relative positions of the balance, earth disc, and moon display. It will be 1,058 years before this mechanism needs adjusting by just one day. Check out this video to get a better sense of exactly what we mean here: But there's more to look at on the movement-side of the Terraluna. Of course the movement is crafted from German silver, which gives off that slightly yellow glow, and the balance cock with swan neck regulator is hand engraved like on all A.Lange&Sohne replica uk watches. The twin barrels for the 14-day (336 hour!) power reserve are mostly hidden under the moonphase display, but just above the balance wheel you can see the special constant force escapement at work. It pumps out a consistent burst of energy every 10 seconds to compensate for the higher torque that would result from a traditional escapement when the springs are fully wound. The Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna is not a limited edition, but production will be relatively tight due to the inherent complexity. Both white gold and pink gold cases are available, priced at $230,400 and $229,200 respectively.
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Brief Thoughts On The A. Lange & S?hne Zeitwerk
Article publié le 19/06/2014
This isn't A Week On The Wrist; this isn't an official, detailed look at anything. This is simply a quick recap of my thoughts on a cool watch after wearing it for a few weeks. The watch I am going to discuss here is the Zeitwerk from A.Lange&Sohne replica uk. The Zeitwerk is a watch that isn't like anything from anybody else, and that's exactly why I asked to borrow it this past fall. You see, I consider it the ultimate "second Lange," as in the watch you buy from Lange after God has smiled upon you sufficiently enough to provide you a life where you can afford not one, but two timepieces from the house of Lange. I realize it doesn't happen to many of us, but it does happen. So why the second Lange and not the first? Well there are two lines of watches from Lange that people tend to fall in love with. There are the Lange 1s, arguably the most important and most representative of this German manufacture, and then there are the chronographs. Not everyone can get into the über-German, Teutonic feel of the Lange 1, but EVERYONE can get into a Lange chronograph. Like, everyone. And I think if you're interested in chronographs at all, and have the means to make it possible, a modern Lange chronograph – whether it be the Datograph Up/Down or the dressier, slimmer 1815 chronograph – is really as good as it gets. And, if it were me, that's the road I'd take into Lange ownership first. So, before you buy your Zeitwerk, pick out your Lange 1 or chronograph, then read the rest of this article. Ok now that you've got your Lange 1 or your Datograph in the safe, let's have a look at the Zeitwerk. This thing is really, really cool. The Zeitwerk is Lange's first Franck Muller replica uk with a digital display, and it provides this in a very slick way. Inside the caliber is a patented jumping hour mechanism that, unlike previous iterations of a mechanical digital watch, does not rely on a creeping minutes display, that would often show the hours and minutes with tiny numerals at an angle at all times except on the hour precisely. Nay, this is A. Lange & S?hne, and corners they do not cut! In the Zeitwerk, you have three discs – one of the hours, two for the minutes – and instead of displaying the time vertically like you find in most historical digital displays, the time is read from left to right like you would on an actual digital clock. With the Zeitwerk, the minute displays jump instantly, and while that sounds easy enough, consider the amount of power required to move these discs around. All this is made possible by a special escapement integrated between the barrel wheel and the balance. A rementoir gains, holds, and releases the energy required to move each disc every 60 seconds in a small burst of power, and then over the remaining minute rebuilds. This continues in a cycle. Funnily enough, in a rare dose of technical inexactness for Lange, they call this mechanism a constant force escapement. By a strict definition, it is not, especially when compared to something like the 2013 Grand Prix winning Constant Escapement LM from Girard-Perregaux. What it is, is a rementoir, providing an escapement with a MORE constant force than what you'll traditionally see. You have a 36 hour power reserve in this caliber L043.1, with 416 individual, beautifully finished components. The rear of this watch is just totally foreign to even seasoned lovers of mechanical watches. I really enjoyed my time with the Zeitwerk. It's a big, bulking watch at 41.9mm in solid white gold, but as I mentioned, it can be a very casual timepiece if you forget its price. ($77,400 as of April 1). It does so much so well, and I really do believe this watch is highly representative of Lange's exacting but casual nature as a company in general. Would I buy this watch? Absolutely, if I felt a replica tag heuer Grand Carrera made of white gold, at this price, were reasonable for me to wear on the weekends. Or, if I were a silicon valley entrepreneur who wore jeans to work every day. That's who I see wearing a Zeitwerk. It's not your typical Lange, or maybe it's actually just that, the very embodiment of Lange. I'm not quite sure. Either way, it's a totally different type of luxury watch, and one I absolutely love. You can read more about the A. Lange & S?hne Zeitwerk right here.
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replica tag heuer Grand Carrera Milgauss 116400GV Watch Review
Article publié le 18/06/2014
The Milgauss case is 40mm with lug to lug measurements coming at mere 48mm. As a result, the watch wears rather small which also means that it will fit most guys. For me, unless I previously wore one of my larger watches, the 40mm case does not bother me. Also, because the Milgauss weighs in at just under 150 grams, any smallish feelings tend to disappear quickly since you can definitely feel that you are wearing a heavy and solidly built timepiece. The bracelet is of the same steel with polished center links. The adjustment of the screwed links is easily done and the bracelet size can be further slightly adjusted in a breeze with the Easy Link. This is a wonderful replica tag heuer Grand Carrera innovation that I often use. Essentially, it allows the bracelet to grow or shrink by 5mm in a few seconds by simply opening the clasp and pulling on one end to release the easy link, or folding it to hide it. The whole thing works simply and brilliantly. The folding clasp on the Milgauss is one that can create some debates. Unlike the Oyster Flip Lock clasp that is found on the GMT Master II, this one does not have a folding lock and uses a loose bit that you pull with fingers (or nail) or push to create a lock. That lever-like bit, even when closed, seems to be dangling and does not appear to be securely locked, while the rest of the clasp does lock quite nicely. At first, I did not appreciate this bracelet style, since the dangling part of the bracelet seemed to swivel a bit… However, I have to come to appreciate the fact that it is a lot easier to open and close this bracelet than the Oyster Flip Lock on the GMT Master II. And for a daily wearer at work, I found that the simplicity of the Milgauss bracelet allows me to adjust it on my wrist quickly and efficiently without even looking at the Franck Muller replica uk and loosing any concentration on the task at hand. When replica tag heuer Grand Carrera first released the Milgauss reference 116400GV anniversary model, it was in some short supply which resulted in various speculations and price hikes. However, nowadays you can find it in most authorized dealers, though its price keeps creeping up with replica tag heuer Grand Carrera's yearly price changes, indicating perhaps some level of sales success. The reference 116400GV model retails for $8,200 while the white dial and black dial models go for slightly less: $7,650. The primary difference, besides the different dial schemes is that the GV is the only one with the green crystal, the others have the regular transparent sapphire crystal. It's also the only replica tag heuer Grand Carrera with a non-transparent sapphire crystal. Overall, I could not be more satisfied with my Milgauss GV. Even though I work close to heavy scientific equipments and various electrical devices emitting all sorts of magnetic fields, it is doubtful that I really need the kind of
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